Glossary

Agrafe — a clasp on articles of costume and armour made of metal. In addition to its utilitarian function, it served as a garment decoration. Agrafes were often pieces of jewellery, made of gold, silver and precious stones.

Alba — A white garment, a kind of tunic with sleeves, part of the vestment of a Catholic bishop.

Aumônière — a begging purse attached to a belt during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

Balteus — A shoulder strap for carrying weapons or other items of warrior's equipment in ancient Rome.

Balzo — a married woman's headdress during the Renaissance.

Boots — High-cut shoes.

Braccae — A piece of military costume in ancient Rome, trousers of varying length, from short (to the knees) to long (to the ankles). They were mainly worn by the troops of the northern provinces.

Bragette — Flap at the front. Laced to the trousers with straps.

Brassard — Part of a military costume, hand protection made of leather or metal.

Cale — a tightly fitting cap with ties under the chin, worn by men and women during the Middle Ages and Renaissance. In the sixteenth century, the ties disappeared.

Caligae — Footwear in ancient Rome, sandals with many straps with thick soles.

Campagus — Footwear in ancient Rome, lace-up boots. They could be open-toed. Similar to the ancient Greek endromides.

Cape — A cloak cut in the shape of a semi-circle.

Ceinture — Belt. It was made of different materials depending on the wealth and social status of the wearer.

Chaperon — A male and female headdress during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, a hood with a pelerine, had a huge variety of types and ways of wearing it.

Chausses — Men's and women's stockings during the Middle Ages. In the fourteenth century men's stockings were made longer, later sewn at the back and laced at the waist with other articles of clothing.

Chemise — A shirt, a garment worn during the Middle Ages.

Chlaine — In ancient Greece, a garment made of rectangular pieces of fabric with flowing pleats.

Coife — a head covering, a bonnet.

Cotte — The upper shirt of men and women in the Middle Ages, a ceremonial, ornate shirt of the nobility.

Cowl — hood, a headdress known as far back as Ancient Rome. Since the end of the 4th century it has been a monastic headdress. In the Russian Orthodox Church it is known as part of the vestment of a monk of the Great Schema.

Crown — A headdress symbolising power. It is usually made of precious metals and decorated with precious stones and pearls.

Cuirasse — Part of a military costume, a torso protector made of leather or metal.

Dalmatica — an outer garment with knee-length sleeves or lower. Evidently borrowed from Dalmatia during the late Roman Empire. In the Byzantine Empire it was a garment worn by the emperor and the hierarchs of the church with precious fabrics. In Western Europe it has been known since the 8th century

Endromis — footwear in Ancient Greece, lace-up boots. They could have an open toe.

Fibula — a clasp for securing clothing, draperies. In addition to its utilitarian function, it served as a costume decoration. The fibulae were often works of jewellery, made of gold, silver and precious stones.

French hood — A complex layered headdress of a married woman during the Renaissance, distinguished by a hood that served as a pouch for her long hair.

Gauntelet — Part of the warrior's armour, hand protection in the form of movable metal segments.

Gorgière — A part of a military outfit, a collar or hood with shoulder padding worn under the helmet.

Greaves — part of a military costume, a leg protector made of leather or metal.

Harness — A belt with a strap system for carrying weapons.

Hat — Men's and women's headwear made of felt or fabric. The same type of headdress is referred to differently in different sources.

Helmet — Part of a military costume, a headdress made of metal that protects the head.

Houppelande — The outerwear of the nobility in the late Middle Ages, for men and women, was voluminous and presentable due to the expensive fabrics, trimmings and the amount of drapery.

Imperial helmet — Part of a military outfit, a headdress made of metal in ancient Rome to protect the head.

Jacket — Late Medieval and Renaissance men's costume, a voluminous jacket, usually fitted with tubular pleats, mid-thigh to knee length, with long or voluminous sleeves.

Jippon — A tight-fitting jacket with narrow sleeves or without sleeves to which the chausses were laced.

Kolpos — The fabric overlap at the waist formed when girdling a garment in ancient Greek costume.

Laurel wreath — A symbol of glory, the triumph of victors, warlords and emperors.

Limbus — A strip of fabric sewn onto the lower part of a stola

Lorum — A long narrow strip of cloth, in Ancient Rome a consular scarf, in Byzantium a part of the emperor's attire. It was made of brocade and decorated with gold embroidery, jewels and gold plates of various geometric shapes.

Mantle — A long cloak with a plume, part of the ceremonial attire of monarchs.

Mitra — A headdress, part of the liturgical vestments of the highest Catholic priests, worn on major holidays, richly decorated with gold embroidery and precious stones. It had two ribbons attached to the back to symbolise the Old and New Testaments.

Necklace — A neck jewellery piece. During the Renaissance period, it consisted of interlocking links, richly decorated with precious stones and pearls.

Palla — A woman's garment in Ancient Rome, a rectangular cloak worn over tunics and tables. It was characterized by a variety of draperies and could be fastened with a fibula.

Paludamentum — A voluminous rectangular cloak worn by the military in ancient Rome, which was made using high quality wool. It often served as a badge of honour for military leaders and emperors. It was usually red in colour.

Partlet — A Renaissance costume item, a collared pelerine that covered the neckline. It was attached to the bodice of the dress with pins. The fabrics could be very different: linobate, velvet.

Patten — thick-soled or platform shoes worn over clogs and chausses to protect against the mud on the streets.

Pourpoint — Men's tight-fitting clothing with sleeves.

Rica — A veil, a piece of cloth draped over the head and used as a headdress for women in ancient Rome.

Robe — From the 13th century onwards, male and female clothing (outerwear) in Western European costume, from the 16th century onwards, female dress.

Sagum — Rectangular wool cloak in ancient Rome.

Sandals — An open shoe consisting of a sole and ropes or leather straps with which the sandal is secured to the foot.

Stola — Women's clothing in ancient Rome. Worn over a tunic.

Surcoat — Men's and women's clothing from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Worn over a cotte.

Transado — A maiden's headdress in the form of a net, used in the Renaissance period to cover the back of the head.

Tunic — Men's and women's clothing in ancient Rome, the Byzantine Empire and Western Europe in the early Middle Ages.